Part 9

 With the hull hanging on a wire hook to let the varnish fully cure attention was turned to making a stand. This hopefully would allow further all-around eyeballing for location of the mast and sail sizing. I have just the thing in the wood stock. 2 x short lengths of rebated mahogany. In a previous life they had surrounded a boiler alcove in my parents house. Made by Dad many years ago I'd luckily saved them when the new boiler had been relocated. A piece of  inherited flat mahogany in addition was all I would need to make the stand for 'Cats Paws'

Closer inspection showed that Dad had only finished the outer 2 angles/edges. the inner angles were rough and gouged. Desperate to use them a plan for a sympathetic restoration was needed. Sanding the pieces flat gave me a small pilE of saw dust which I mixed with epoxy glue to produce a strong and colour matched filler. Once the epoxy had dried further filing and sanding gave a worthy result on all sides.

The flat piece wasn't wide enough to cut out the hull supports so I made those in 2 halves. Gluing down the middle after planning flat.

Band saw cutting the groove joint and further application of epoxy/sawdust mix before propping the hull supports at 90 degree to dry.

A last sand over and a couple of coats of yacht varnish finished the stand. 

Who'd have thought that this Chippendale-esk piece of carpentered wood would now expel such pleasing beauty both in shape and colour...

Till next time stay safe at the pond. 

Part 8

 Time to coat the hull with a protective layer of waterproofing.  It would be a shame to loose the pine, mahogany and brass detailing under paint so a good few coats of Ruskins Yacht Varnish are in order. Apparently made with Tung Oil, pressed from the seeds of the Tung nut. Used by ancient chinese boat builders to waterproof boats 2500 years ago. The oil and its use are believed to have originated in ancient China and appears in the writings of Confusius from about 400 B.C.

Gets better the longer I research!!!!Proper old skool!!! 4 x lavish coats were applied.

Now set aside to dry...Keep looking in and stay safe at the pond.

Part 7

 Remember the keel weights? Cast and shaped they await attaching in position. This is exactly what is about to happen now. The bottom of the keel had already been cut with a groove to allow a 2mm plate of metal to be bonded in. This metal will be brass, bonded on each side of the brass will be the keel weight halves. So, without further ado lets cut and shape the brass. Grinder fitted with either cutting disc or a flap disc was my choice of tooling. The flap disc also made short work of roughing the surface of the brass to aid achieve a solid bond using 2 x pack epoxy.

I bonded the keel weights to the brass first. Once dry this gave me the ability to use 'rack of eye' to line the run of the lead straight down the centre of the hull. Cellotape holding the weights in position as another mixing of 2 x pack epoxy was drizzled into the groove, the ends sealed with more cellotape to stop run out at either end. Rest and leave now.....

The brass insert was now held firm in the wooden keel but I fancied adding a useful feature. Brass pins running through the lead weights and the bottom of the keel. That should enhance the old skool looks.

The pins running through the lead weight I soldered when inserted. A good wiping with 'Bakers Fluid' (flux) helped the capillary action once the brass was to solder melting point. Filed when cooled and a finish with emery gave the desired look.... 

It's only now I will find out if  the size of the lead weights has been a good guess......which for my money look brill...... another float test would be a good idea. A large plastic storage box filled with water was just the job. I was pleasantly surprised that Cat's Paws still had a reasonable amount of freeboard. (Considering the hull is quite shallow.) At the same time I was now able to ascertain where the hull centre point was, (CLR) which then guides me to where the mast should be positioned. (C.E.)  

Every days a skool day!!!! Today I learnt the facts below. 

Freeboard - Distance from waterline to deck

CLR - centre of lateral resistance. 

CE - Centre of Effort. Should in theory be 4% to 5% forward of CLR. Also should be 33% to 40% of hull length measuring from bow.  I've marked the hull for mast position visually after finding CLR. I'll run a tape over the hull and keep you posted on on how close visual is to theory in the next chapter.

Thanks for checking in. Stay safe at the pond.

Part 6

 'Back in't day' when I were a small boy I was given an old model yacht by a neighbour. It had a mechanism through which sails attached to rudder. I was oblivious to what it was at the time but I now needed to know more. I want one on 'Cats Paws' . What was it's purpose? Turn's out it was a 'Braine Self Steering Mechanism'. Wow! This wonderful piece of model yachtery was invented in 1906 by a chap called George Braine (of  Kensington....important to note back then it was Blighty leading the world) If it's trimmed correctly for the wind conditions it can offer help in ensuring the yacht sails reasonably straight across the pond whilst the sails catch all the blow...I've attached a couple of pictures of vintage Braines mechanisms for your delight. 

Still available with a bit of searching both used and new but apart from waiting for one the correct size the cost of such a rare piece is not in the spirit of this build. Uncle Alb tha' needs ta' make ya own. Indeed tha' does...let's crack on and do it.....

A suitable piece of 1.2mm brass was not available in the inherited stock so I had to buy. Ah well can't find everything....First job a cardboard template was cut to match what I considered the correct size and shape visually. No plans on this build it's all on what I think looks good. Jigsaw and filing continued until brass matched cardboard cut out. A pillar drilling session followed my evenly spaced punch marks that I'd marked previous. A few 'speed holes' were added to replicate the weight saving efforts of the vintage originals

Making a rudder fitting boss that would be soldered to this newly formed Braine mechanism would have been possible but I copped out as suitable brass model boat propeller couplings are available on Ali-Express for pence. Cutting one in half and facing off on the lathe would be all that was needed to make fit if I purchased one with the correct internal sized bore.

The little grub screw holds the Braine mechanism tightly to the rudder shaft. Like they were meant for each other. I then turned another 3 x brass bobbins. 1 x will solder to the back of the Baines and the other 2 will be fixed to the hull. Pulled between these 2 I will have a 2mm nitrile O ring that will act as a form of spring to pull against the wind and try to return the rudder to straight.

Hopefully I've understood the workings of the Victorian era Braine Self Steering Mechanism enough to build an example for 'Cats Paws' . Only time will tell.......

Keep looking into the blog for more build news. Bye for now.

 

Part 5

 Whilst I waited for a model makers sized brass sheet to arrive to fix the keel weights to the keel fin I turned attention to the mast mount. A piece of dowl was purchased from Hobbycraft to use for the mast this was needed now to give me a diameter to work to.. (Well the store was handy and this purchase was reasonably priced) Search between the cross stitch wools and the coloured wax crayons if you need your own mast.. A bit thick I'll admit but I recon with a good sand-papering to thin and taper it will be just the job. 

The mount I will turn from scrap brass. A search proceeded through the 'family brass collection' stored in a Vintage Warlord Rick Dark Flake (Lambert & Butler) tobacco tin. Interesting that in years past parents were willing to shorten their lives considerably just to gather useful storage tins to pass down useful 'Bits 'n' Bobs. This time the tin did not give, I need to look for an alternative source. The 'Government Stock Room' is awash with out of date gas regulators that once saw action holding stable pressure for MIG welding machines. All destined for the scrap yard in exchange for pence as it's not cost effective to separate the mix of materials in their construction and get best brass price.. The gas bottle fixing nut look like it could be of use, so a couple of regulators fell into my sandwich box in true Johnny Cash style. 1 x piece at a time...you know the old song. 

Hacksawing off the desired lump and firmly attached in the lathe chuck the shape soon started to  appear with creative use of the cutting tool....amazing what a bit of imagination and time can do.

Lastly 4 x holes at quarter intervals on the flange will hold some brass rivet/nails for deck fixing and hopefully will be strong enough to not only stand strong winds but small boys lifting the yacht out of the water.

Small yes, but very important. Best bit...it cost nuffin. The rivets? Homemade too, it would have been rude not to.

Until next time take care. Alb.

Part 4

 The excitement continues to build....read on it will be worth it.

The moulds are dry. Hurray!!!! Luckily I happen have a large stock of old lead. On it's way to be turned into cash at the scrap yard, quite by chance it didn't get there. Rather ironic that the lead was in its former life chimney flashing at the very house where 'Cats Paws' is destined to be one day moored. Next item I need is a melting pot?? Not willing to sacrifice any of the kitchen cookware the cheapest saucepan I could find was sourced from China. I did check local charity shops to no avail, a national shortage obviously. £8 inc carriage to progress this part of the project I thought was ok.. The heat source? A vintage Gaz Bluet. Think that's everything, light the gas!!

The moulds were lined up and the cleanest bits of lead flashing were thrown in the pan. Some of the flashing had years of moss growth on it and I thought better of adding even more contamination than necessary to the pot.

Took a while to get the lead hot enough to puddle, the luxury non-stick surface soon cried enough is enough. No worries this pan is on a one way journey. A brief moment of stardom before total pan oblivion.

Scrapping the crusty bits off the boiling lead surface revealed lovely shiny molten metal underneath. Time to pour, stand back, the pan handle is starting to spin....it's becoming loose... oh blimey..... Quick...Quick...get on with it!

Just before the first mould was filled to level it cracked....damn...keep going......second mould wedge between bricks to hold if cracking occurs...damn not looking good, another cracked.....keep going, wedging the spare third mould between bricks again I had just enough lead to fill.

Close inspection...looks like there's gonna be some filing action to follow once these have cooled. There was no way I'm gonna go through the whole process again and make fresh moulds..

Filing I did...and quite a bit of it too. Eyeballing....filing....eyeballing...filing....Fill holes with epoxy and lead filing dust mixture...The desired shape appeared eventually with only a small showing of epoxy filler. The second mis-shaped lead form got the same treatment until I had a matching pair. Rub with sandpaper for extra smoothness. Polish with a big dollop of 'Mothers Metal Polish' and hey presto. 

Perfecto!!!!! What once graced a chimney in Luddenden now will hopefully stop a sleek racing yacht from capsizing....

Yeah, like no one will ever know the pain I went through to make these. Only us!!!! You've made a silk purse out of a sow's ear once again Uncle Alb.

What do ya think? Fun??? Well yes it was........there was risk of both poisoning and deep burns on this project.

Next step, drill and fix to the keel fin.

Keep looking in for more news on 'Cats Paws'

Part 3

 Greetings from Alberts Workshop. Read on for an update of progress on 'Cats Paws'. 

With the keel fin nicely shaped and firmly glued to the keel it's time to design and build the keel weight. We've come this far without a proven design plan so why change now.? It's a one off......lets start and go on a journey....

A bulb keel, that's what I want. Think it will look the business. Made in the old skool way....by hand without the aid of AI or C.A.D. Out comes the 'rack of't eye', and a bit of old sandpaper for a finishing rub down. So, before your very eyes a wood off-cut firmly clamped in the lathe will be transformed into a casting pattern. (Hopefully).

Pour in some old fashioned lead and hey presto!!!! Done. (Not quite that quick, there's more too it than that.

So, as I said, wood firmly clamped in the lathe, face well away from the expected firing line (should it decide to break free and fire it's self across the workshop) after a bit of cutting the final shape started to appear. A shape looking more and more like a Flash Gordon 1950s rocket. I like it.....a lot!

Finally smoothed with the old sandpaper it was time to mix a batch of Plaster of Paris and cast some moulds. I wrapped the pattern in cling film to aid release rather than try a wax and polish.

3 moulds were cast to a half way depth. I needed the finished lead weights to be in halves so I can clamp 2 of them to some sort of plate attached to the keel fin. (the third was a spare....)

These were set aside for drying which has to be a thorough job or there may be a risk of explosion when the hot lead meets the damp mould. Wooweee!

Next job will be metal casting. You've got to agree the excitement is building as I venture deeper and deeper into the unknown. Stay tuned and join me next time when there's bound to be smoke...fire....molten metals...and hopefully no exploding plaster!

Alb over and out.